Kayaking down the historic Monongahela River, Fairmont, WV, to Pittsburgh  (May 2006)
Brownsville, Pa.

I stopped in Brownsville before I took my paddle trip knowing that I wouldn't be able to spend much time in the river towns simply because of the ambitious five-day paddle schedule. And Brownsville deserved a special visit given its historic past.  The original town was a British outpost called Redstone during America's colonial period, when both the French and British claimed this area. During the French and Indian War, the fort was a shelter for settlers escaping Indian raids.  Later, Brownsville was where the National Road met the Western Waters, and many pioneers traveling west took to flatboats here to continue their travels.  The river route between Brownsville and Pittsburgh was the first to be dammed to raise the level of the water so that boats could operate even during the summer months when flatboats, keelboats and, after 1811 and the launch of Fulton's New Orleans near Pittsburgh, when these boats could not pass the shallow places. 

Former Mayor Norma Ryan took me on a tour of the city, and has some audio comments here.
If you visit Brownsville, you should stop here at the Flatiron Building which is in the lower level.  I don't know how else to explain this. Coming into Brownsville on US 40, which was the old National Road you wouldn't see this part of town and you'll pass right by and across the Monongahela River Bridge traveling west.  You have to exit left just before that bridge and you'll end up just up the street from this building.  It's an interesting historical museum with lots on the town's past.  It's supposed to look like an old iron.

 

Norma Ryan shows us a map of the area that tells the history.  Norma is optimistic about the city's future, although a large part of the downtown has recently been razed. The city was booming as recently as the 1950s, but now most of the stores are closed or boarded up.  It's a sad state of affairs for such an historic town. 

Norma talks about Brownsville's history

Click here for audio

 

This is an interesting juxtaposition. On the left, you can see one sole car on the main street of Brownsville, looking out the Flat Iron Building window. Next to it is a photo from the turn of the century, when the streets are packed with old cars and was bustling with shoppers and businesses.

Here's a better view of the town.  Now keep in mind, this is the town of the 1900s. There are buildings in Brownsville going back to 1700-1800s.  Those would be up around the National Road, the buildings of the agrarian society. Here, we see the industrial era of coal mining, boat building and manufacturing.  There is still a small shipyard in Brownsville that builds barges.

You can see the entrance to Union Station in the middle right.

     
One can only imagine the hubbub and activity that once was at the entrance to Brownsville's train station.  
Now, a storefront beckons potential customers to travel on a bus -- with Jesus.  This store is not in operation, though, like most.
There are two bridges in Brownsville across the Monongahela, if I recall correctly.  Under the railroad bridge there's a restaurant called Fiddler's.  It's frozen in time, but you can get something good to eat there.  Doesn't take credit cards, but does have an ATM.  As in many restaurants in Pennsylvania, smoking is allowed. So be prepared to pick a suitable seat.  
Norma shows plaque proclaiming the first cast iron bridge in the country built around 1836.
     
You can see an old distillery in the distance on the opposite bank of the river. Unfortunately this historical site appears to be falling into ruin.  Brownsville and the Mon Valley was famous for whiskey making (and the Whiskey Rebellion).

For the paddler who wants to stop here in Brownsville, there is a small beach just downriver from the bridge pier in this photo (at normal river stage. It could well be covered at high water).  We are looking up river here.  The beach gives easy access to the town via this new river walk where Norma is sitting.  Down river on only 3/4 of a mile or so, I camped on the right bank where there is a good flat area (albeit with it's share of poison ivy and with some noise from nearby trains).

  
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